Established in 1816 by a man named Gulab Singh and carried forward by his son Johrimal, the shop itself is quite unassuming, contrary to the many distant lands its fragrances summon. The walls of the single-room shop have ornately carved wooden shelves bedecked with painted glass vials of attar (the Persian word for perfume derived from the Arabic ‘itr’). An old 19th-century wall clock at the entrance has watched over the shop for two centuries. The shop has an open, inviting presence. The cushioned seats are essentially for customers but even casual passersby stranded in the intermittent Delhi showers are welcome to wait the fickle weather out.
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